Description

We are excited to again offer our red flannel undershirts and drawers for your colder weather comfort. Based on several original examples, this is the same pattern as our white flannel and unbleached muslin undershirts and drawers. (please see that listing for more details) We first made these in red flannel for sale in our shop and in the field some 20 years ago, after discovering several period advertisements and descriptions of them as being quite popular in both red and gray.  The main difference here other than the obvious color, is that the yoke and fly of the trousers and the collar and placquard of the undershirt are made of sturdy unbleached muslin. This is also a period described and pictured feature as it proved more durable.  Shirt was made to go either under the wool shirt for added warmth and comfort on the cold winter days, or, under the cotton shirt as well, for a cozier experience in the Spring or Fall. (They are also GREAT to sleep in!) This shirt is pure utility and was made without pockets specifically to be worn under an outer shirt. Common pattern straight side seam with sleeve gussets and a simple banded neck to fit neatly under the outer shirt collar. The front placquard is shorter than the normal shirt – just big enough to accommodate pulling over the head and buttons with a single high grade finished bone button at the top. The sleeves are cut and hemmed at 3/4 length with no applied cuff. A slit in the lower seam at the edge accommodates pulling the sleeve over the hand and also facilitates rolling up the sleeve if desired. The 3/4 sleeve designed to fit loosely inside the outer shirt and end above the outer shirt cuff. As in most of the clothing of the day, the shirt has machine sewn seams and hand sewn button hole. Made in a nice lightweight cotton flannel. The drawers are likewise all machine sewn seams with hand sewn buttonholes and our finished high grade bone buttons.  Pleated back with herring bone cotton tape tie. Well made with reinforced front crotch and fly pattern as seen on originals. Marked with simple manufacturers stamp of Noah Walker and Company of Baltimore. Walker is a unique and special documented pre-war and wartime  maker and dealer in “Citizens and Military Clothing”, as his period advertisements indicated. He had quite extensive market exposure and contracts having establishments in Baltimore, Norfolk, Petersburg, Richmond, Washington D.C, and Illinois, making him a quintessential source for clothing for both sides, before, during, and after the war, beginning in the 1840s and not selling out until the 1890s. Each of his establishments carried their own local name and served their local markets acting as distributors of his wares. Also marked with waist measurement in inches. (Note: With tape tied snugly and material meeting in the center measurement is exact – as in original garments – no 21st Century fudging here to make one feel better and enhance the sale. We sell our “Ready-Made” drawers in even sizes only, just as in the day. The waistband button is placed a bit on the snug side of center giving one about an inch to move it for the odd number size if desired and still have the fly close properly. Otherwise, if you want more room or do not want to loosen the tie – please size up NOTE: Period drawers were made and meant to fit loosely!) These drawers are the type made to tuck into socks coming to above the ankle – not full trouser length with a draw string. Both styles are documented to the period. Our tests showed if they are washed properly, in cold water, either by hand or delicate cycle, and hung dry – virtually no shrinkage is evident. We also found that washing as indicated resulted in very little to no bleeding of color from the flannel to the muslin which is remarkable considering our flannel is actually batch dyed using traditional methods. There was some transfer of red “fuzz” from the nap of the flannel, which can also be seen occasionally in seams which attach the two materials prior to washing and may give the visual effect of minor coloring in those areas.  Having said that, we still RECOMMEND WASHING BY THEMSELVES. (Please see Size Chart on Home Page for measurements on shirts) VERY LIMITED RUN!!!!!

Important Note: Canton, or cotton, flannel can be prone to fraying on the cut edges of the material with repeated machine washing. To prevent this and provide better durability and integrity for the garment, we applied a machine sewn interlocking blanket stitch on the cut edges of the material along the interior of the inseams on these drawers and undershirts in the same color red thread. This stitch closely resembles machine stitching that was available during the period and also mimics hand stitching that was in use well before the period. (the machine developed to do this specific stitch which is now used was first patented in Europe before or during the war and in the immediate postwar period in the US) If this is a feature which you find unacceptable for some reason, please do not order this item. The alternative methods of dealing with this issue by hand would result in a significantly more expensive product for our customer. The selvage can still be folded over and flat felled by hand if desired.